Chasing penguins in Patagonia

Penguins have recently achieved a bit of fame and some recognition on the global stage. Rightfully so. As global warming continues to progress, all life on the planet will have to adapt. Some life forms are already leading the way.

In Chile’s Patagonia Sur, at Pinguinera de Seno Otway, the Magellanic penguins are making necessary adjustments in their lifestyles by having to swim greater distances for their daily meals, This is due to the fact that fish populations they depend upon are being reduced by overfishing and displaced as a result of global warming. Oil spills and fishing nets continue to take a toll on these birds. Although not endangered, a combination of factors are at play here, the end result being that the Magellanic penguins are now on the “Near threatened” list.

These birds are quite shy and are much smaller than their relatives, the Emperor penguins. They are also known as jackass penguins because of their braying calls, which they use when excited and which you are most likely to hear as you approach the colony.

Mating with the same partner each year, the male arrives to the nesting site first, waiting for his mate to arrive shortly thereafter. They also use the previous year’s burrow for their nesting season. Only couples return to the colony.

The penguins arrive here in September, doing a bit of spring cleaning - seasons being reversed in the southern hemisphere - and start laying eggs in mid-October. They depart the site in mid-March, for the winter season off the coast of Brazil.

As can and should be expected, the weather may play an important role in your ability to capture successful penguin photos. The wind coming off the sound is unbelievably strong and biting. You should dress accordingly.

The designated viewing areas and roped off walkways allow you to view these birds at a respectable distance. Because of this, longer focal length lenses in the 300-600 mm range will work best. Also, consider using a tripod, as images will end up blurred should you decide to attempt hand-holding the camera. Plan an early site visit, as the penguins head out to feed by 10 a.m.

When you go for a visit, the nearest town is Punta Arenas. This is your base, and a suggestion would be to spend several days here.

The cemetery is a fascinating place to visit and photograph. Local residents have turned it into a respected and - if a cemetery can be considered as such - revered work of art. Small, rusty-fenced grave sites sit side by side with huge mausoleums. Beautifully sculpted trees stand sentinel while native flowers co-exist with their plastic brethren. A visual feast for the eyes, as well as the camera, you may find yourself here on repeated visits.

There are many great restaurants where you can enjoy the local and regional cuisine. Additionally, you may wish to treat yourself to a great little local coffee/chocolate house, Chocolatta. Situated in the heart of Punta Arenas, it offers the best tasting and most beautifully presented mocha in the Americas. Their home-made chocolates are creamy as well as tasty, and are a great addition to the camera bag when you’re out in the field.