Mask making in Mexico

Masks are used throughout the world for their expressiveness in ceremonial performances and for practical purpose. They play an important part, in fact are vital, to many folk rituals, and in many instances can be traced to ancient origin. Universal in their use, they hold a position of power and mystery, both for the wearer and the audience.

The word persona meant ‘a mask’ in ancient Rome, additionally referring to one who had full Roman citizenship, a privileged status. In today’s modern civilization, masks are worn in celebrations as varied as Mardi Gras, Halloween, and various tribal customs.

Tocuaro, a sleepy little town just outside Patzcuaro, Michoacan, hosts some of the finest mask makers in all of Mexico. The late Juan Horta was perhaps Tocuaro’s most famous mask maker, having won the National Mask Maker competition several times. His masks have appeared in exhibitions throughout Mexico, as well as the United States. Additionally, his masks have been featured world-wide performances by Ballet Folklorico de Mexico. His son, Hugo, is following in his father’s footsteps, and is considered by many to be equally, if not more so, as talented as his father was.

Many of these mask carvers take great pride in their work, carving intricate designs from a single piece of copal wood, and applying paint in painstaking detail. The best mask carvers in the village demand, and receive, hundreds of dollars for a single mask that can take over a month to complete. National and international collectors alike encourage and support the mask carvers of Tocuaro.

Despite efforts by the Catholic church to stamp out indigenous beliefs and traditions, ceremonies such as All Saints/All Souls Day continued in their age-old ways. In modern day Mexico, as across the planet, masks continue to play an important role in various religious dances, masquerades, ceremonies and festivals.

Imagination, fantasy and total creative freedom are the norm for these mask carvers.  In villages, towns and cities throughout Mexico, masks take relevance in numerous celebrations each year.  A far cry from the contemporary swine flu masks seen on many sad faces across the planet today, the mask carvers of Tocuaro bring passion and theatrics into their work.

One of Mexico’s great unheralded travel destinations is to Tocuaro’s neighbor, Tzintzuntzan, for the annual celebration in February, La Fiesta del Senor del Rescate. Early in the month, indigenous communities from four regions of Michoacan arrive in Tzintzuntzanto give homage to their patron saint, The Lord of Rescue.

In El Atrio de los Olivas (Atrium of the Olive Trees) among 500 year old olive trees, thanks to the Spanish conquest, the largest celebration of the year unfolds. Young girls as angels and boys as devils fill the courtyard, participating in La Danza del senor del Rescate, a representation of the fight between good and evil.

Stunning in its display, the fiesta is known as a ‘moveable feast’ that travels throughout the atrium into Templo de San Francisco, and is the equivalent to Carnaval or Mardis Gras, held in other parts of the world. Church bells ring throughout the day to keep evil forces away. As the festival moves into the inner sanctums of the church, hundreds of devotees enter, many walking on their knees, to receive a blessing or to give thanks. The scene will leave you awestruck and quite humbled.

Many of Tocuaro’s mask carvers save their best work to coincide with this festival.  For the serious mask collector, this is prime time.